Chef Rene Johnson is leading the healthy soul food revolution one recipe at a time. Johnson’s healthier, vegan spin on famous soul food staples has seduced some of the world’s biggest dignitaries, and it all started in her Grandmother Katherine Owens’s kitchen.
On a mission to make soul food favorites more heart-healthy, Rene inherited her grandmother’s recipes, removing harmful fats, and whipping up healthy versions of old-style soul food favorites, leading to her 20-year reign as the most in-demand soul food chef for A-listers. “I taught myself to make my grandmother’s red beans and rice without the pork shank, and you would never know that my collard greens don’t have pork or turkey.” She doesn’t negate meat altogether but chooses to use it sparingly. “Unless I am specifically making a piece of protein, I recreate vegan and vegetarian versions of all the classic soul favorites, maintaining their style, flavor, and essence,” shares Rene.
N’DIGO chatted with Chef Rene Johnson and she shared wonderful stories about how her Grandmother cooked everything fresh and from scratch. She talked about how she puts her spin on southern food favorites and how she developed a love for making amazing vegetarian and vegan dishes without losing the soul.
Tell us where are you from and what started your love affair with food?
I am from Oakland California, born and raised. What is funny is I don’t remember loving food so much as a child, but I loved what my Grandmother did with food. I loved the times my family shared special moments around food. What I love the most is the experiences I shared with my Grandmother and her food. She helped me know what good food is, she exposed me to fresh food made from scratch, she exposed me to so many flavors and textures of food, and she made me appreciate the varied colors of food.
Who taught you the basics of cooking?
My Grandmother taught me the basics. She taught me so many simple, but important things like how to test your cake to see if it is done with your middle finger. She taught me how to make a balanced plate, she taught me how to fry a great hamburger and keep all the juice in the burger, so when you take that first bite, the juice runs out of your burger. She taught me that milk makes your eggs tough, and water makes them fluffy. Those basics have stuck with me forever. I have passed them down to my daughters, and they have been tried and true.
Why did you decide to put a vegan twist on traditional soul food recipes?
You do have to move with the trends and people are embracing a healthier way of eating than in previous generations when my grandmother was making her famous dishes. In my industry, you have to know food flavors and styles. Also, when I have guests over or I am catering, I want everyone to be able to eat and experience my food. I did not want to do the extra work of making sure my vegan guests had food to eat. My vegan food was so delicious that I decided I would cook everything vegan or vegetarian, except for the protein my client’s request. I do believe if you want a piece of fried chicken, turkey meatloaf, or what have you, you should have it. But to be honest, I changed with the times, started cooking vegan, and once I did it I loved it.
Describe your “Soul Fusion” style?
I say my “Soul Fusion” style is fresh, colorful, simple, and delicious. Our tagline is, “Where Elegance Meets Soul.” I believe I have taken southern food from pork, chicken, and beef to a more plant-based spin and still kept the richness and the soul of soul food. I have taken soul from the back of the kitchen, put it on a plate and made it the star of the table.
Explain your full philosophy “keep everything simple and fresh”?
I like to make everything fresh and from scratch whenever possible. I cut my tomatoes fresh, I use fresh herbs in almost everything, my favorite spices are salt and pepper. Yes, I use other spices, but my favorite seasoning is simple salt and pepper, because I want to taste every layer of the food that I am eating.
You have fed guests from the politicos of Washington to Hollywood A-listers. Can you name some notables you have cooked for? How did these opportunities come up?
Being born and raised in the Bay Area, I have fed almost all of them. I have fed Tony Toni Tone, Danny Glover, Congresswoman Barbara Lee, Speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi, Vice President Kamala Harris, California Governor Gavin Newsom, London Breed, and Dr. Cornel West who was my favorite.
Tell us about your catering company, Blackberry Soul (https://www.blackberrysoul.net/)? What makes the experience different from others?
We are known as one of the best caterers in the bay area. No matter if we are feeding 50 or 2500 guests. All of our guests will have the same Blackberry Soul experience. They will have fresh, flavorful food that will make them make a lot of noise when they eat, and they will want to kiss the cook, I promise you! We show up and serve soul food in an elegant style.
What do you think it will take to raise the profile and increase African-American representation in the food industry especially in the field of vegan soul food cuisine?
I think it is all about vegan education. People need to know that just because it is healthy does not mean it is not good and flavorful. It can be something as simple as knowing that a peanut butter and jelly sandwich is vegan, french fries and catsup are vegan. Believe it or not, that was a game-changer for me. Also, I think when people understand the benefits of being a vegan, not only for you, but the benefits to nature and understanding the cruelty towards animals, it starts to make sense. And to keep it real when you understand red beans and rice, greens, and mac and cheese can be made healthy and still taste like your Grandmother was in the kitchen. It just makes sense.
How have you been surviving COVID-19? How do you refill your cup and take care of yourself?
Well, to be honest, COVID-19 allowed me to slow down and realize what is important. Before COVID, I was working nonstop. Now, I have taken the time to take care of me. I am the Grandmother of 10 little people, and I spent a lot of time with them. I stayed in the kitchen, making pancakes, cookies, and all of their other personal requests. Also, I was one of the few at the forefront of learning how to have a business during the pandemic. We fed the essential workers, teachers, some of my favorite clients; and I did my pop-ups, but I scheduled pick-ups to make sure everyone was safe.
Tell us about your Chef Rene Johnson Quarantine eCookbook?
I created the cookbook while we were in quarantine. It was my way of bringing Chef Rene Johnson into your home since I could not serve my customers. It has some of their favorite recipes, cooking tips, health tips, and shout-outs to other local businesses to show my support.
Let’s talk about the restaurant industry a little bit. We have been seeing some crazy changes, like the outdoor seating. What do you think is going to happen as all of these different restaurants that make up the beauty of so many of our neighborhoods are trying to figure out creative ways to survive?
I remember when I had my restaurant. It was about, not only the food, people came for the great energy and the feelgood vibe we had. I think that is still important. Summer is coming up, people are ready to get out more, and it is going to be key that restaurants make sure they are making customer health and safety their top priority, while giving them a wonderful experience and serving amazing food. People being outside eating brings a community together. I remember our block parties back in the day, when I was a little girl. The outside eating experience, to me, is very reminiscent of that.
Describe the atmosphere in the kitchen when you’re cooking. Is it quiet and serious, or fun with music and laughter?
I work really hard, so I must have fun doing it. I am truly a DJ in my second life. I need to be called DJ Chef Rene! It depends on who is in the kitchen with me. If my girls are in the kitchen with me, then we are doing some Beyonce, Mariah, and if it’s my friends we have some Marvin, Isley Brothers, Blackstreet, and some Aretha. No matter who it is, they know they must sing along using their wooden spoons or whatever is close by and they better know their part to sing, or least be able to mess up the song. I always have a great time in the kitchen.
What artist or kind of music helps you get the “good cooking vibe” going in your kitchen?
My favorite artist is Marvin Gaye. I grew up with divorced parents, but they both loved music. If any Marvin, Isley or Frankie Beverly is playing I am dancing and stirring.
What’s the best advice you have ever been given?
The best advice I have been given is to take responsibility for your life and it’s outcome, and to know my purpose and know that you are not perfect. I am a true Virgo.
Any advice for aspiring vegan chefs?
Do not be afraid to be bold and creative with food, whether you dive all in or you take baby steps, you can do it. And if you mess up, you always have tomorrow to dive back in.
Where can N’DIGO readers find out more about you?
You can find me on Youtube at Chef Rene Johnson, where you will see me sharing cooking tips, and my traditional and vegan recipes. You can also find me at my website at blackberrysoul.net, as well as on Facebook @BlackberrySoul and Instagram @BlackberrySoulRene
